With full hearts and weary feet we have arrived in Rome!
We received final stamps on our “credenziali” at St. Peter’s cathedral as evidence of our 150+ mile cammino, then were given our testimonium certificates. A happy moment!
Our “credenziali” (the long ones with lots of stamps) that documented our Cammino, so that we could receive our testimonium certificate
We count it a great privilege and honor that you followed along on our cammino. Your support, encouragement, and prayers meant more to us than you’ll ever know. Thank you, fellow pilgrims 😊
Here is Elizabeth’s video of our final day! Below it is a link to the playlist of all her videos for our 2022 Way of St. Francis cammino.
THIS POST WAS PUBLISHED BUT THEN SEEMED TO DISAPPEAR… SO HERE IT IS (AGAIN 🙃)
From Nancy…
Tomorrow we will walk the remaining ten miles into Rome to St. Peter’s Cathedral to finish our 18-day cammino. St. Francis walked with his friends the 175 miles from Assisi to Rome eight centuries ago, and his example of simplicity, love of nature, and devotion to God has inspired us on our journey.
Since leaving Assisi we’ve wound our way up and down medieval hill towns following St. Francis, through endless olive groves and ancient Roman ruins. Yet it’s been the many kindnesses we’ve received from the people here—hosts at our nightly stops, shopkeepers and nuns and shepherds, baristas and pizza makers and dog walkers—that have most deeply encouraged and replenished our souls. We are incredibly grateful. Here are a few highlights (with photos!)
Massimo, the funny and talented Assisi artist who painted St. Francis with the wolf (except he used his dog Charlie as the model for the wolf!) And I’ve carried his artwork in my backpack all the wayThe Lebanese-Italian sisters (and one daughter) we met early in the trip, who’ve sent us encouraging WhatsApp messages and invited us to their seaside homeThe bar cafe owner who dropped everything to fix our early morning coffee and share her official “sign” of the Via di Francesco with us Rosa, the shopkeeper in a tiny village who transformed our lunch purchases into a picnic feast, then invited us to come back for a pasta dinner she made with her own olive oil and tomatoes (and yes, the three of us ate the entire bowl 😀)The shepherd who told us about his dogs and his sheep, how they listen to his voice—he didn’t need to use his staffThe three teenage Italian girls running the local museum (they gave us a tour!) When we asked how to “get from here to there” they whipped out their phones and found the needed info in a flashSister Gabriella, who insisted we make a take-away box from the Santa Brigida celebration buffet, since we were leaving before breakfast the next morning and she didn’t want us to go hungryOur B&B host who welcomed us early to her cozy air conditioned place, since we’d been walking in the heat for seven hours already. Can you tell she likes the color blue?
Along the trail this morning we discussed how this cammino (our fourth) has been “just us three.” We’ve met only a few others on the cammino the entire trip. (Helpful tip: Don’t hike the Way of St. Francis in the heat of July. But as teachers, our choices of dates are limited!) The emptiness of this cammino feels similar to COVID quarantines when we were separated from others in our wider circle. Yet then as now, the kindness of others breaks through our isolation, reminds us of the importance of intentionally reaching out and doing good.
We’re coming away from our cammino with a deeper resolve to do the same, to offer kindness and hospitality and simple gifts to the people God brings into our lives. If you’re reading this, you’re one of those people. Just so you know…
When my 16-year-old self finished the Via di Francesco in 2015, I remember wishing I had known more about St. Francis. After all, I’d just trekked hundreds of miles in the footsteps of this 5″4 saint and I hardly knew a thing about him. This time I’ve tried to pay closer attention to the words and wisdom of this holy man who lived nearly 800 years ago. After all, if people like me are still tromping around to Francis’ favorite places, he must have had a few good ideas!
In the imposing basilica dedicated to the man of poverty, its tempting to think that to be holy one needs either to preach a message that will continue to inspire followers centuries later or else live in a little cell (as Francis did for a time) and devote oneself to prayer and penance. However, we discovered a letter written from Francis to “brother Leo” – one of only two surviving authentic letters that can be positively attributed to the saint – that offered some encouragement.
It reads in part:
“I am speaking, my son, in this way—as a mother would—because I am putting everything we said on the road in this brief message and advice… I advise you thus: In whatever way it seems best to you to please the Lord God and to follow His way and poverty, do it with the blessing of the Lord God and my obedience.”
What would my life look like if I followed Francis’ advice? It is just as applicable now as when it was written in 1224 or 1225. What is the way that seems to me to be best for me to follow the Lord and his poverty? Then do it. No fancy basilicas, hermitage cells, or camel skin tunics necessary.
One more vingette from traipsing through Francis’ places that I cannot help but share: we met a shepherd today.
Walking down a hill, we saw three big dogs on the horizon and stopped to take a picture. Lo and behold the dogs were leading a column of sheep, punctuated in the middle by the proud shepherd. One of the sheepdogs spotted us, began barking, and started down the hill towards us. The dog was doing his job – standing out in front of the not-so-clever, helpless sheep and ready to defend them from attackers like strange Americans holding poles. However, before the dog had made it far down the hill, the shepherd called him off with his voice and dogs and sheep continued on their merry way. The shepherd came down the hill towards us and explained in Italian that the dogs responded “only by voice”. He said he didn’t really need the stick he was carrying.
With the shepherd
And of course, John 10 comes to mind-
Do I know the voice of Jesus? Do I, like the sheepdogs, respond quickly when he calls me back?
I am 23 now, not 16, and I’m glad that on this pilgrimage I have tried to practice the simple act of paying attention. This cammino experience has been hot and long and at times lonely. These two glimpses of divinity have given me something to mull over as I walk up and over and down and up again.
The start is easy—full of anticipation and excitement. The end is joyful and fulfilling—goals accomplished. But we’’ve been struggling with the “in between.”
We had a bare-your-soul Cripe family discussion a few nights ago at the end of another long, hard, hot, lonely day. (Elizabeth described that conversation—“Should we quit?”—in the previous post.)
We shared our disappointments.
We considered our options.
We prayed for God’s clear direction.
We allowed ourselves the grace of a day off from hiking. (Thus the taxi. We would have taken a bus or train if there had been one, but we’re too remote even for those.)
St. Francis having a little talk with God (and so did we 😊)
We decided to hike one more day, then reconsider. And on that one day, we were given small gifts that encouraged our souls:
Sunshine after the thunderstorm
…A man playing beautiful oboe music from his high window in the early morning;
…Stopping to buy cheese in a small shop and being greeted with “Buon Cammino!” by a cheerful older man, the first time in 10 days that anyone has said that to us. It was like a cup of cold water, being told to “Have a Good Cammino!”
…The gentle soul who tended the church and shrine, who shared its history with great enthusiasm and asked us many questions about Minnesota and the USA (thanks, Google Translate 😀);
…Walking a few kilometers with another pilgrim, Maurice, an Italian who was going the same way we were (first time THAT has happened), and sharing a cold drink at a cafe before going in different directions. When Maurice told us he had visited his cousin in New Jersey, the couple at the next cafe table said, “WE live in New Jersey!” They were Italians who’ve lived the past 18 years in the USA and were back in Italy to visit family. Small world indeed, with many kind people in it.
Sharing a cold drink with Maurice (photo taken by the New Jersey Italians!)
These little glimpses of grace have given us courage to keep hiking in the “in between,” in the heat (leaving at 5:30 am tomorrow morning!), in the unexpected emptiness of the Cammino, in a beautiful yet foreign land that stirs up longings for home. So we haven’t quit, we’re still walking, we’re more than half way to Rome. One day at a time…
“Isn’t that cheating?” The soul cries in rebellion. But it is precisely because of the soul, not our feet or packs or miles or heat, that we traveled by car today rather than by foot.
The two Italian women we met on Saturday were going to walk from the small town Ceselli to the monastery at Monteluco and then take the bus the rest of the stage to Spoleto. Their goal was to go to mass at Monteluco. Their goal was *not* to walk every inch of the trail from Ceselli to Spoleto. It wasn’t cheating for them, nor a bad choice. Taking the bus part way let them do what they really wanted to do—attend mass at one of St. Francis’ favorite places. Your goal matters.
On our cammino, one of our main goals included meeting other pilgrims. To date we have met 4 pilgrims, 3 who are going the other direction and 1 who was a wayward soul traipsing back and forth on the trail and leaving soon to meet his daughter in Egypt. Our goal of building relationship with others is not being met. At least not yet. And your goal matters.
Just us here…
We walk because we *want* to walk. But what happens when three Cripes don’t particularly want to walk anymore? What is the point of hiking mountains for 9 hours in 100° heat all by yourselves, only to arrive at a place where you continue to sit all by yourselves? As our dear Cammino friend Elena wrote to us, “Meeting other pilgrims is such an essential part of the journey that, without it, there seems to be only heat, pain, and fatigue.”
Brian keeping a lonely cat company during an afternoon thunderstorm
What will refresh the soul? In the past we have walked in order to refresh the soul, to be reminded that we can do hard things, to experience culture in an authentic way, to introduce dear friends and family to a much-loved experience. We have never before thought about, much less discussed, leaving the trail. But we are now. We are halfway to Rome. Ought we to soldier on? We certainly *could* make it all the way. But we also find that we do not have to. We don’t have anything to prove to ourselves. We don’t have any friends to accompany to the gates of St. Peter’s Cathedral.We don’t know that walking another week and a half would be fun.
“What will refresh the soul?”
One of my goals that I shared with friends when we were having coffee together before I left was to be interruptible. I thought this would manifest itself in being more patient when someone wanted to stop and go into a church or wanted to take a break when we were close to the day’s destination. Am I willing to take this goal to an extreme – willing to interrupt the whole Camino, changing our trip into something entirely new? Changing the plan and interrupting our trip would not be a failure to realize my goal but a completion of my goal of being more interruptible. Your goal matters.
Morning coffee, contemplating “Your goal matters”
We are not sure what will happen next. We know that God guards our steps. We know that our souls don’t need the same thing all the time. What will refresh the soul? Perhaps scrapping our plans and pursuing something new.
Since it was my 23rd birthday yesterday, I get to update you via the blog today! First, let us say a big THANK YOU for all your encouraging blog comments! It is so fun to hear from everyone back home and encourages us to keep walking and keep sharing our thoughts with you. The day of my birthday was QUITE an adventure and involved a ten hour day, 3,000 feet of elevation change, 95° temperatures, and a little bit of trespassing. Check out the Day 5 video for all the details! In the meantime, a few thoughts about a question we are often asked and that I have been asking myself: “What’s so great about walking, anyway?”
“What’s great about walking anyway?”
Physically, we have done quite well, with Mom and I blister free and Dad with just a few small “hot spots.” One of our biggest challenges has not been physical but soul-level: we have hardly seen another pilgrim (the name for those walking the Cammino), and that is both unexpected and discouraging. Of the few pilgrims we have seen, 99% are headed the opposite direction- that is, they are walking from Rome to Assisi instead of Assisi to Rome as we are. However, despite the low numbers of pilgrims, this is my first reason why walking is indeed better than taking the bus: you meet lovely people along the way. Most of our new friends are not pilgrims but tourists, waiters, hosts, and shopkeepers. Still, their kindness brightens our hearts. I will tell you just one story as an example.
On Tuesday night as we perused the ristorante menu we noticed a family of four women taking a selfie at their table. With Dad’s good prompting, I got up and offered to take a picture for them. We all began chatting and we soon learned that three adult women were sisters, traveling with one of their daughters, celebrating one of the sisters’ birthday. In a “coincidence” that only God can contrive, her birthday was July 15! We chatted a bit and then all returned to our respective dinners. Two days later Cripes were having a rest day in a different city, enjoying a cup of coffee in the piazza, when we spotted the four women walking through the square! Dad gallantly ran after them and invited them to join us. I think we all sat together for an hour or more, talking about teaching (one sister is a teacher) and cultures and languages and so much more. It was really delightful. At the end, when we parted, they generously invited us to visit them for lunch at one sister’s home near Rome at the end of our trip. Although these beautiful women were not pilgrims, it was a blessing to share some life with them. And later we connected over WhatsApp to wish each other a very happy birthday! So it seems that we walk in order to connect with other people whom we might not otherwise notice, even if our connection is brief.
Our new Lebanese-Italian friends
A second and final thought: we walk, also, to get comfortable with being uncomfortable. I was texting with a friend recently about how travel, particularly international travel, puts you in uncomfortable situations. Suddenly, everything is new: how do you order a coffee? How do you wash your hands when there are no faucet handles? (This happened to me today; there was a foot pedal on the floor to turn on the water for the bathroom sink). The purpose is not to learn everything, much as I might like that! No, the purpose is to get comfortable with everything you don’t know. It’s very hard for me to do this, but travel is a good reminder that there is much I do not know and that, in fact, is just fine.
So, there you have it. Two reasons why three Cripes are walking through Italy, again. Its not perfect. There are days we are frustrated, out of water, sunburnt, bored, lonely. But these are two reasons we think it’s worthwhile to use our own two feet to follow St. Francis’ steps to Rome. Thank you for coming along with us on the journey!
But before beginning our Cammino we enjoyed quite a few adventures in Germany and Northern Italy. We saw the Passion Play in Oberammergau with our Minneapolis friends Kim and Jon Sorensen, then explored the mountains and gorges of Bavaria.
At the Oberammergau Passion play, held once every 10 years since 1633Elizabeth trailblazing Germany’s Partnach gorge
In Verona, Italy, we wandered the fabled streets where Romeo and Juliet lived and loved.
Verona (Brian bought us hats in the market for the Italian summer sun!)
A true highlight was staying with our friend Elena and her family for several days in Milan. We met Elena seven years ago with her cousin Christine on our first Cammino, then hiked a second together in Spain in 2017. Our last stop before Assisi was in Parma (the home of Parmesan cheese) to see Andrea Bocelli in concert under the stars, a surprise birthday present for Elizabeth!
With Elena in MilanAwaiting the start of the Andrea Bocelli concert
Early Sunday morning we walked out the city gates of Assisi following in the footsteps of St. Francis to Rome. We’ve now finished our third day of hiking on paths that hug the hillsides, winding through olive groves and ancient hill towns (up, down, up, down) of the region. Because it is July and it is hot, we’ve met very few other pilgrims on the trail. This is a quiet Cammino so far, yet with special unexpected gifts (like the gelateria that appeared “like a mirage” on a hot afternoon with flavors like strawberry basil and lime mint… or Rosa, who turned our meager grocery purchase at her tiny shop into a lunch feast and invited us back for a pasta dinner tonight!)
Gelato!!! So very happy
On our first morning, Elizabeth shared with us part of a liturgy that included these words: “Accomplish your purposes among us, O God. Tune our hearts to the voice of your Spirit. Wake us to be present to You and to one another in these shared hours we are given.”
Every day is a gift. Thank you for traveling along with us on this Cammino.
Elizabeth has made a short video for each day, to give a closer look at the places, animals, terrain, food, and humor of our journey.
We have arrived at Santiago de Compostela, Spain, the city of St. James and destination of the many Camino routes that wind across Europe. Two weeks, two hundred miles, six pilgrims; fatigued feet, happy hearts, replenished spirits.
Arriving at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
There is a story of a woman who moved to Africa to teach, but having grown up near the sea she missed it in her new home. For her birthday, one of her students gave her a beautiful seashell. Astonished, she asked how he had found the shell so far from the ocean. The young man said he walked to the sea to find the shell and bring it back for her. “Long walk part of gift.”
The Camino scallop shell
The symbol of the Camino is a scallop shell. The converging lines of the shell point the way to Santiago. Ancient pilgrims used the shell as both a cup and a plate (we prefer a bigger plate after a day on the trail!) Nowadays, those walking to Santiago tie a scallop shell to their packs to identify themselves as pilgrims. At the completion of the Camino this simple shell, companion and symbol of “The Way,” is a special treasure. “Long walk part of gift.”
Even so, the teacher’s birthday seashell and the pilgrim’s scallop shell are still shells. The long walk doesn’t transform them; the intent of the long walk transforms them—the life-changing power of intentional love, sacrifice, and service. We were challenged on the Camino by Paul’s words in Philippians that “each of you should look not only to your own interests, but also to the interests of others.”
Early one morning while the rest of us slept on, Jena and Rachel walked quite some distance to buy croissants and coffee at the only bakery around so we could have breakfast before hiking. They each carried three cups of coffee (no lids) with bags of pastries tucked under their arms to bring us a wonderful surprise. “Long walk part of gift.”
Jena and Rachel bring coffee and pastries
Other intentional gifts of “the long walk”: helping others hoist their backpacks, asking insightful questions along the trail, offering to sleep in the top bunk, genuinely listening to the stories of other pilgrims from around the world, sharing one of your last Compeeds (a particularly amazing European blister covering), and choosing joy over grumbling when you’re footsore and exhausted…. just a few of the loving, sacrificial gifts of the Camino. “Long walk part of gift.”
Brian and Bruno, who met on the Camino and reconnected in Santiago!
This Camino has ended, yet we return home to continue to live intentionally in the Spirit of the Camino. Take the next step. Look to the interests of others. Embrace with courage and joy the adventure God sends to us. And be grateful.
We’re very grateful to you for journeying with us through these blog posts. Thank you for your support, prayers, and friendship. Come with us next time on Camino?
Leaders of the Day Finding the Way…Hmmm… which way to Santiago?“Ultreia!” (A pilgrim greeting of encouragement to keep going, heading onward and upward)
First, a camino lesson: when faced with a disappointing experience, you have two choices. You can focus on the disappointment or you can let that go in order to enjoy what is.
For example, I have blisters this Camino! That’s never happened to me before. I can choose to focus on my disappointment and discomfort, or I can let that go and enjoy the beautiful scenery passing by me with every step.
Our feet at the end of the dayBounty of the vineyard
And now, after that short (but difficult) lesson, a prayer from St. Augustine of Hippo with Camino reverberations.
Late have I loved you, O Beauty, ever ancient, ever new, late have I loved you!
Old and new: drums and arches
You were within me, but I was outside, and it was there I searched for you. In my unloveliness I plunged into the lovely things which you created. You were with me, but I was not with you.
Searching: where next?
Created things kept me far from you, yet if they had not been in you they would not have been at all.
Our Group
You called, you shouted, and you broke through my deafness.
Breaking deafness
You flashed, you shone, and you dispelled my blindness.
Dispelling darkness
You breathed your fragrance on me; I drew in breath and now I pant for you.
Breathing in the fragrance
I have tasted you, now I hunger and thirst for more.
To cross the border from Portugal into Spain we had to cross the Minho River, but the first ferry of the day wasn’t till 9 am. We pilgrims are fond of early morning starts, especially since temperatures were predicted to reach the mid-90’s. What to do? Take the next step, and it shall be revealed.
Through a series of humorous connections we arranged for Miguel to take us across in his boat (think “small fishing boat”) at 7 am. We met at a café for a quick coffee, piled into his van with our backpacks, and he drove us out to the point where his boat was moored. Miguel took us across three at a time and dropped us on the beach (“Jump as far as you can!”) Not your usual international border crossing, just an empty sandy beach after sunrise and six salt-sprayed pilgrims now in Spain. We had taken the next step—actually, our first step—into Spain.
Miguel, our boat captain who took us to Spain
Although none of us speaks much Spanish, a smile and a greeting of “Buenos días” or “Buen Camino” can open the way for conversations that make the journey so worthwhile. But we have to take that next step of offering a greeting, and then… it shall be revealed: our waitress who is wild for Harry Potter (tattoo and all!); our welcoming host at tonight’s albergue and his daughter, a college student who helped translate; a young Portuguese pilgrim wearing a Minnesota Twins cap who had indeed cheered at a baseball game on a summer visit to Minnesota!
Rachel showing our Spanish waitress photos of Harry Potter World at Universal StudiosWith our albergue host German (he’s Spanish!) and his daughter
The trail is well-marked with classic yellow arrows, but there are actually THREE routes to choose from on the Portuguese Camino. What to do? We read the guide book, we ask for advice, and then we take the next step. One route might take us along the Atlantic coast into a strong north wind (the “nortada”), yet another choice would take us on a high wooded path. It shall be revealed.
Follow the yellow arrows… most of the time!
We’ve been delighted with all the discoveries we’ve made by taking the next step on the journey even when we have no certain knowledge of how it will turn out or who we’ll encounter. Caminos, like life, prompt us to take the adventure of “the next step” without knowing the ending. But it shall be revealed. Our faithful God guides us and travels with us, as He has with countless millions of Camino pilgrims through the centuries.
Take the next step. It shall be revealed.
Early morning…The “twenty-somethings” with young legs…
And the “young-at-heart” pilgrims with experienced legs!
Here are links to short daily videos made by Elizabeth to give “the flavor” of the Camino.
Cripes on Camino 